Best Portable Generator for Home Backup (Sizing and Safety)

The right generator keeps your fridge, furnace, and lights running through an outage. The wrong setup — or the wrong way of connecting it — kills people every year. Here's how to size one, what to buy, and the one connection rule you never break.

⚠️ Before you start

  • NEVER back-feed a generator into a dryer or range outlet ('suicide cord'). It energizes your home's wiring backward, can kill the utility linemen working to restore your power, and can destroy your house when the power returns. Use a proper transfer switch or interlock only.
  • Generators produce carbon monoxide — an odorless, deadly gas. Run them OUTSIDE only, at least 20 feet from the house, away from windows and doors. CO from generators kills people every storm season. Put a battery CO alarm on every level of your home.
  • Never refuel a hot, running generator. Let it cool. Store fuel safely and away from living spaces.

A generator is one of the best pieces of storm-season insurance you can own — and also the piece of equipment most likely to hurt someone when it is used wrong. Let's do both halves: pick the right one, and connect it the right way.

Start with sizing, not price

Buy watts you need, not watts a salesman sells. Two numbers matter:

  • Running (rated) watts — what a device draws continuously.
  • Starting (surge) watts — the brief spike when a motor (fridge, furnace, pump, A/C) kicks on, often 2-3x its running watts.

Add up the running watts of everything you want on at once, then make sure the generator's starting capacity covers your biggest motor starting while everything else runs. For essentials — fridge, furnace blower, some lights, phones, maybe a well pump — many homes are well served by a 5,000-7,500 watt unit. Add central A/C and the number jumps.

Inverter vs. conventional

  • Inverter generators make clean, stable power that's kind to electronics and modern appliance control boards, run noticeably quieter, and throttle down to save fuel at light load. Look at an inverter generator sized for home backup.
  • Conventional generators give you more raw watts per dollar and are perfectly fine for pumps, heaters, and lights. A larger conventional generator covers heavier loads for less money.

The connection: this is the part that matters most

Here is the rule that never bends: never plug a generator into a wall outlet to power your house. That "suicide cord" back-feeds your wiring, can electrocute a lineman miles away, and can burn your house down when utility power returns.

The two safe, legal ways — both installed by a licensed electrician:

Then run power from the generator to the inlet with a proper generator inlet cord — not a daisy chain of household extension cords.

Carbon monoxide: the silent one

Generators pour out carbon monoxide. Run them outdoors only, at least 20 feet from the house, away from any window or door — never in a garage, even with the door open. Then back it up with a battery CO alarm on every level. Every storm season, CO from generators kills people who were just trying to stay warm. Don't be a statistic.

Bottom line

Size for the loads you actually need, favor an inverter if you'll run electronics, and spend the money to have an electrician install a transfer switch or interlock. The generator is the easy part; the safe connection is what keeps your family — and the crew fixing your power — alive.

Prices are ballparks and change. Product links on this page are affiliate links — if you buy through them the site may earn a commission at no cost to you. See our affiliate disclosure.

📞 When to call a professional

The generator itself is a homeowner purchase. But the safe way to connect it to your house — a transfer switch or a listed panel interlock kit — is a licensed electrician install, and in most places it requires a permit. This is the single most important part to get right. Find a licensed electrician near you to install a transfer switch or interlock.

Frequently asked questions

What size generator do I need?

Add up the running watts of what you must power (fridge ~150-200W running, furnace blower ~600-800W, well pump ~1,000W, plus lights and phone chargers), then leave headroom for the surge when motors start — often 2-3x the running watts for a moment. Many homes are comfortable on a 5,000-7,500W generator for essentials. If you want to run central A/C, the number climbs fast; size for what you truly need.

Inverter generator or conventional?

Inverter generators produce cleaner, more stable power (safer for electronics and modern appliance boards), run quieter, and sip fuel at partial load — but cost more per watt. Conventional generators are cheaper for raw wattage and fine for pumps, heaters, and lights. Many people pick an inverter for the electronics-friendly power and quiet.

How do I connect it to the house safely?

Two safe options, both installed by an electrician: a manual transfer switch (a small sub-panel that lets you power selected circuits) or a listed interlock kit (a plate on your existing panel that makes it physically impossible to back-feed). Both isolate your house from the utility so you cannot energize the grid. Never use a double-male 'suicide cord' — it is illegal and deadly.

This guide is general information, not professional advice for your specific situation. Electrical codes and permit rules vary by location. If you are not completely confident and qualified to do this work safely, hire a licensed electrician.

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